Fafda

**Make the dough:** Combine besan, carom seeds, turmeric, black pepper, baking soda, salt, and oil in a bowl. Mix well. Add water gradually and knead into a stiff, smooth dough. The dough should be stiffer than chapati dough.

**Rest the dough:** Cover and rest for 15 minutes. This relaxes the gluten and makes rolling easier.

**Divide and roll:** Divide the dough into 12 equal portions. Roll each portion into a thin strip about 15 cm long and 3–4 cm wide. The thickness should be about 2–3 mm — thin enough to be crispy when fried.

**Create the ridged texture:** Using a fork or the back of a knife, press ridges along the length of each strip. This is the characteristic texture of fafda and also helps it cook evenly.

**Heat the oil:** Heat oil in a deep kadai to 160–170°C. The temperature should be moderate — too hot and the fafda browns before cooking through; too cool and it becomes greasy.

**Fry the fafda:** Slide 3–4 strips at a time into the oil. Fry on medium heat for 3–4 minutes, turning occasionally, until pale golden and crisp. Fafda should be light golden, not dark brown.

**Drain:** Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. The fafda will crisp up further as it cools.

**Make the papaya chutney:** Grate raw papaya. Mix with finely chopped green chillies, grated ginger, lemon juice, sugar, and salt. This tangy chutney is the traditional accompaniment.

**Serve:** Serve fafda at room temperature with papaya chutney and jalebi. In Gujarat, fafda-jalebi is the quintessential Sunday morning breakfast combination.